Wednesday, December 31, 2008


Despite the forty mile an hour winds that seem to be becoming commonplace this year, we were able to take advantage of an evening and dine at Tremont's newest establishment, Bistro on Lincoln Park. What we found wasn't exactly a surprise, but certainly a welcome addition to the neighborhood. Situated in the old Sage Bistro spot on the corner of West 11th and Kenilworth Avenue, the paned windows emit a warm glow that has been sorely missed.

Stepping inside, customers are greeted in a modern, minimal, but appealing bar area. Their decision to limit access doors to one not directly in the path of the weather outside was a wise one. The place was nearly deserted, with empty glasses and lone candles marking votive hopefulness on the part of the chef, staff, and management. We were treated to a choice window table, and were promptly greeted by an attentive server. The hardwood floors enhanced the warm eminance of the incandescent lighting, and the linen tablecloths and napkins added much to the casual chic vibe.

We were pleasantly surprised to find some brew choices not found in most fine dining establishments, notably: Chimay (Red) and Duvel, among the more traditional domestic and import offerings. Prices for drinks remained on the low side, with Chimay going for a mere $5. Martinis were $9 across the board. In a kind and much appreciated gesture, Chef Pete Joyce prepared for our party a wonderful amuse, a sweet/savory spoonful of duck and... sorry... I was so excited for the bite that I missed the description.

For dinner, I could not pass on the siren call of the Duck Confit; deliciously succulent on the bone preparation with "Crispy Truffled Potatoes, Bacon Lardons, and Wild Mushroom Fricassee". On the whole, this meal achieved much greater flavor than what the sum of its parts would have been assumed, with the lardons providing just right amount of salty indulgence paired with the potatoes and mushrooms. The duck was rich, dark, and fall off the bone delicious. See the Menu here.

And granted, it was a Monday evening after a major holiday, but the lack of business was troubling. With the economy in the tank, it's understandable for people to cut back, but should you get the urge for something new, you could do considerably worse than this...

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