The Last Leg

Got a call from the Unknown this morning (Tuesday). Literally, that's what it said on my caller id: "Unknown". Very mysterious, though I had a feeling it was originating from somewhere in Bolivia. Sure enough, Katie had hijacked a greenhouse in the heat-like phone booth to check in. Was she safe and sound? Yes. Was she well rested? Sort of; between new surroundings, a racing head, and the hotel television in the background, she didn't get much sleep.

She did meet up with Dorinda, the doctoral-getting, China, Paris, Montana, Bolivia-living guide of guides who is showing Katie the ropes, as it were. It sounds like she's done more in her life than most people could even hope to do. She currently resides in Independencia and will be working with Katie during her stay.

She said the food had been good; cafe con leche (espresso with steamed milk) and bread baked with cheese for breakfast. Lunch yesterday was a vegetarian melange of various.... vegetables, I guess. Plus fava beans, she did mention fava beans.

The forecast looks to be pretty predictable (and warm). A far cry from the snowstorm brewing maliciously outside my window, but a welcome change I'm sure.

-------------------------------------------

It's now Thursday, sorry for the delay. Spoke briefly with Katie just a moment ago and she is safely in Independencia. The dreaded bus ride was largely as anticipated; hairpin turns through the Andes Mountains, etc, with one rather harrowing twist like a cherry on top. Apparently, as they were crossing through a pass, the earth above (and ahead) of them let loose, disgorging a mass of dirt and rock that rumbled down the mountainside and across the road ahead. The landslide caused a rather lengthy delay, until a bulldozer could be brought into service and clear a path through the rubble. During the wait, as passengers caught some fresh air outside the bus, another smaller slide sent rock shards and other debris in their direction, as they quickly raced across the road to avoid the collapse.

Now, however, things have taken a more leisurely pace, and Katie has settled into her room at the local hostel. For the kingly sum of $15 a night, she is guaranteed a private bathroom, a real luxury in itself. She said that outside her room there are peach trees, and all that surrounds is green and lush. She and Dorinda made a peach crisp for dessert last evening, in fact, direct from the trees out back. She hopes to have internet access via the local school intermittently, so anyone reading that would like to send her a message are encouraged to say hello.

Now she will be getting down to business, teaching the local women (and men, I guess if they're interested) in weaving and spinning on a wheel (I mean like spinning yarn on a wheel, not like a weird game show or anything). Also, dying textiles using natural dyes, and whole host of other textile related 'things' that I don't have the vaguest idea how to do or explain.

She wishes everyone could see what's she's seeing, but alas, we'll have to wait for the pictures...

(No word on if she'll bring us back stylish hats.)

Treetop Flyer - Into La Paz

Days four and five of Katie's travels are wrought with some literal and figurative ups and downs. The flight out of Cusco was harrowing; apparently the logistics of the altitude necessitate some treetop flying before landing in La Paz. Safely in Bolivia now, she is staring out a huge windowed atrium, waiting to board her connecting flight to Cochabamba. Security took her knitting needles back in Cusco, but they have free wifi, so she can use her iPod touch for now.

From the sounds of it, Cusco was not a magical destination. Torrential downpours, coupled with getting lost and being on the receiving end of a long bumpy bus ride with a crying baby does not a fairy tale vacation make. She noted that apparently, with all the rain, multiple small towns have been obliterated by mudslides; "Everything is clay red with puddles" to paint a murky picture.

But, she was able to meet up with Nilda Callanaupa, who curates a textile museum in Cusco, and is a prominent author on the subject. I'm not sure of their discussion, but based on the fascinating work Ms. Callanaupa is doing, I'm sure it was interesting.

The photo at right is on the site linked above, I just couldn't resist not putting on the post. I'll be continuing to update news of her journey as she reports it, so check back periodically for new posts. Thanks for reading!

Bolivia Bound

As Katie weaves her way through South America on her way to Bolivia, we are left here in the gray of Cleveland in winter. Boooooo. But, on the plus side, I will have hot water and reliable electricity, which I'm pretty stoked about. As she will not, I will act as a sort of conduit to update those interested in her trip.

Day One:
Katie survived the seven hour layover at JFK and flew overnight to Lima, Peru. From there she caught another flight to Arequipa, where she stayed two years ago for her internship. Friends picked her up from the airport and installed her for the night in their apartment. The weather was hot, the sun was out, and she was sleepy.

Day Two:
Actually day three, but with overnight flights and such, it's just easier this way. Spending the day exploring Arequipa, with the beautiful sillar main square, which was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2000 (thank you Wikipedia).

As this is concurrent with today, I don't really know too much more other than that she will be flying tonight to Cusco, a city relatively close to Machu Picchu, which has, of late, been the site of some serious flooding.

I anticipate that she will do some or all of the following today:
1. Eat chicken and potatoes... and maybe giant corn (it's enormous, I don't know what kind of Miracle Grow they're using over there).
2. Buy yarn; come on, it's inevitable.
3. Walk around the main square (pictured above) and struggle to find just the right angle to get a good picture of the Cathedral.
4. Dread her upcoming layover in the La Paz airport. It apparently takes a long time to get to a small Bolivian village, mainly because there are no direct flights.

When she does arrive at her final destination, Independencia, it will be a different landscape than any of us (most likely) are used to. For instance, I've been trying to dig up information on the village, but even in this day and age, it's nearly impossible. That's how you know it's pretty 'off the grid'. Take the photo below, for example. It shows the gps location satellite imagery for the village, and yes those are trees.
I think 'rural' may be putting it mildly...